Balance West Coast Tour

On our way home.

2008-11-05T11:01:00.000-08:00

It has been a long time, and for Hunter and I it has been a really long time. We are just chillin' in the SF international hostel on fisherman's wharf. The Golden Gate is just outside the window and there is good music playing. This trip has been crazy! I look back at the pictures, and have to think, "Was I really there?". The Balance West Coast Tour is coming to a close. We left Bishop a couple of days ago after several days of perfect climbing. It gave us all a new perspective of what bouldering is and can be. A new perspective of how high you can go, what is physically possible and how spectacular a landscape can be. This trip was just a taste, but I know we are all leaving inspired. Hunter, Paul and I all have projects to go back to. Boulder problems that we really related to and connected with. I felt the starting holds of High Plains Drifter, and though I'm not strong enough now, I will be. Hunter and Paul got on the Hulk, worked the opening moves and, on their next visit, will most certainly finish it up. We met a lot of people along the way. A whole lot. We spread the good word of Balance Climbing and built connections in this great climbing community. Seriously, the climbing community is one of the finest - everyone we met was so cool and so helpful. A kid I met who was working on the Mandala (V12, and that is the only time I'll mention grades) helped me find some super easy and low fun problems around the buttermilks after giving me a tour of the area. That is real! Josh, helped us find our way around and was the best spotter a climber could have and just plain good company. All the people we met, all of the places we climbed were just beyond words. I've been using the words incredible, amazing and beautiful too much, so I'll stop typing and let you check out the pictures.

Farewell to Bishop

2008-11-03T11:25:00.000-08:00

Today is our last day in Bishop, and Hunter went huge! He climbed
Jedi Mind Tricks. Very hard, Very classic and VERY TALL. It was the
most incredible climb I've seen all trip long - and that is saying a
lot.

Bishop, Vegas, Bishop

2008-11-01T17:20:00.000-07:00

Back track a bit, and lets play catch up...it has been a while since we have had a good wireless connection. Sorry to be slow on the updates, but I think you will enjoy the pictures we have coming over the next few days.

We got to Bishop about five days ago in the evening and barely found the campgrounds, much less a site. Luckily we met up by chance with a fellow Alaskan, Josh, who is on an extended road trip for the next several months. He let us share a site with him and we have been climbing with him since!

The next morning we began with a day at the Happies. Bishop is a small town that happens to be a bouldering mecca! The Happies are one of three main areas at Bishop (the Happies, Sads and the incredible Buttermilks), all within about twenty minutes of eachother. The Happies are volcanic rock with some of the craziest features you could imagine. Huge huecos (big scoops and hold in the rock), perfect patina, huge holds and small crimps and pockets galore! The climbing is generally on overhanging rock with good holds, which makes for incredible problems. Since the sun was blazing we found an impressive line in a cave that had small crimps leading to huge pockets with a mantle high over the ground. Paul climbed it quickly and powerfully. It was very impressive. Hunter stepped up to it and finished it in a couple of goes. It made for incredible climbing and beautiful pictures! I passed this line up - it was a bit higher and harder than I would have been comfortable with. Huge props to Hunter and Paul for keeping their heads cool on a really high mantle. And huge props to Josh Helke at Organic for making such a great pad that gave us so much confidence - that thing has softened some huge drops! We followed the shade climbing whatever inspired us. Easy to do in a place with over 1000 problems all within a ten minute walk of eachother!

The line that pulled through this roof was riddled with pockets. It was so impressive.

Paul near the last moves and a ways off the deck.

This boulder had some great features and a great warm up route.

The next morning we headed off to Las Vegas to pick up Rob. Josh decided to come check out Red Rocks with us and we were stoked to have another climber along. It was a long drive through Death Valley to get to there...Death Valley is creepy - make sure you have a full tank of gas and a lot of water with you when passing through. So desolate. Once in Vegas we found Rob in a sea of people at the largest most well lit airport in the world! We headed to the campgrounds and the next morning we headed up and did some moderate multipitch routes (as mentioned in the previous blog). The next day we decided to clip some bolts on incredible sandstone sport climbs in the Black Corridor of Red Rocks. Amazing, check out the pictures.

Sport climbing in the Black Corridor. The place is like an outdoor gym!

Sandstone! Great pockets, ledges, everything.

Rob cruising up a route in the Black Corridor. There is a black patina over brilliant red rock in the corridor.

Josh on Rebel Without a Pause. This line was steep with big moves. So fun.

After Hunter led it, we all gave it a go on top rope. It fit Pauls style perfectly. Big, powerful moves on an overhanging wall.

The views from Red Rocks are inspiring, and the rock is incredible. I look forward to going back someday soon.

Hunter's warm up.

2008-11-01T12:56:00.000-07:00

This morning Hunter warmed up on this boulder, following a line of
huecos over a lip to a slab top out at about 50 feet. Beautiful line!

This place is beautiful.

2008-10-31T17:30:00.000-07:00

Our Campsite.

2008-10-30T19:03:00.000-07:00

This is camping in the Buttermilks!

Bishop to Red Rocks to Vegas to Bisho

2008-10-30T18:55:00.000-07:00

We pulled into Bishop a while ago, climbed the Happies, and then
camped in the Buttermilks that night. The next morning we woke up to
the most amazing landscape I have ever seen. Hunter is planning on
moving here, and I'm just not planning on leaving. I woke up with the
sunrise, made a cup of coffee and walked five minutes to incredible
lines. Classic lines. Evilution. Foot Prints. Center Direct. High
Plains Drifter. Soul Slinger. The Mandala! I warmed up on an
incredible arête on the Green Wall, a wall of perfect glassy patina. I
talked with other early bird climbers and enjoyed some mellow problems
and traverses. I was stoked to see Hunter, Paul and Josh (a fellow
Alaskan we picked up in bishop) come over the hill and we cruised up
to Iron Man Traverse, a classic Bishop problem (picture below). The
next day we drove to pick up Rob in Vegas. The next day we climbed two
four pitch climbs at red rocks: alotta balls and trihardral. Rob, on
lead (trad climbing), pulled off the craziest and boldest sequence I
have ever seen in my life! In a chimney too wide to span with your
arms, two pitches up faced outward into the void. He stemmed up
precariously and with no hands, lunged for a jug on a corner outside
of the chimney! It is easier to explain with the motions, but it blew
my mind. Following it was the most scared I have ever been. The next
day we headed into the black corridor to sport climb. Hunter simply
destroyed everything he got on. It was incredible! Now we are back in
Bishop pebble wrestling, getting stoked on mini projects and climbing!

Bishop is not ready...

2008-10-25T11:16:00.000-07:00

So chill.

2008-10-22T17:26:00.000-07:00

Bouldering on the beach in Arcata was incredible. It was so free - walk up to a rock that looks good and climb it however you want. No names, no grades and no beta. It was so relaxing. The waves and the sand and sunshine; all of the good things that make a beach so amazing, plus climbing! We did everything we could come across. Hilary met up with us, which made the whole thing that much better. There really couldn't be a better way to spend the day. All of the problems were so varied and unique. Some were really short and sweet, some were tall and SCARY, but all of them were so much fun and there was no pressure. It would be an amazing trip to just head down the coast hitting up all the beaches with good bouldering and surf. Something to consider...

Beach Bouldering

2008-10-22T14:15:00.000-07:00

So, we caught up with Hilary Hennon and headed down to boulder on the
beach! Sunny, warm and climbing! Hunter and I did a fun high problem
on the big rock in the background.

Coffee

2008-10-21T11:14:00.000-07:00

Hunter refuses to drink it...

Leaving Smith

2008-10-21T10:38:00.001-07:00

Chillin' by the light of the Campfire and PSP. Yep.

Shenanigans.

Leaving the park after climbing for a day. The walk out is long and uphill, but the views are spectacular.

Blue skies, it is good to see blue skies.

Smith Rock treated us well. Blue skies, good temperatures and great climbs. We got a lot done in the short time that we were here. Here are some of the pictures from the visit, and we will be posting a video shortly. The highlight of the trip was probably the climb up Zebra/Zion. The last pitch is 5.9 overhanging jugs at the top of a 400 foot wall. Nothing but air beneath your feet! It was so quality. The camping was good too(a bit cold at night, I had frost on my pad this morning), and hanging out around the campfire was great. Today, we are getting back on the road and heading to Arcata to hang out on the beach. Boulder a bit on the beach and nap in the sun.

The first pitch.

2008-10-21T10:13:00.000-07:00

Hunter working his way up the first 180' pitch.

Zebra direct.

2008-10-21T10:11:00.000-07:00

This is the top of the first pitch, 180 feet long! Quite the warm up.

Top of the Morning Glory Wall

2008-10-21T10:09:00.000-07:00

We found some smokin' free wi-fi and decided to put up some videos. This is the last two pitches of the Zebra/Zion! Hope you guys enjoy it.

Good morning!

2008-10-20T09:06:00.000-07:00

Smith is ill, Paul is sick

2008-10-19T21:55:00.000-07:00

We have been at Smith the past couple of days charging. At least for a
couple of kids from Juneau. Hunter has been climbing so strong. I've
been feeling it myself, and we have climbed some great routes! Today
was a "rest" day, but Hunter gave the area classic Heinous Cling a go
onsight! Bold, bold, bold. He got a ways up before getting vibed off
of the route by a pack of unfriendly kids from Tacoma. One of the
things that make climbing special is the community and support. These
kids from Tacoma need remember this. But we moved onto a phenomenal
climb called Toxic with a big dyno, or for me a crimpy sequence that
is not nearly as spectacular as the big huck. So much fun! Earlier
today we got to hang out in the fiveten van with Kevin, our contact at
fiveten. Such a nice guy. We traded t-shirts, checked out the new
shoes, and just chilled. Props to fiveten. Jessie cruised the park
and looked for routes to project and things to crush. As soon as his
shoulder is better, I'm heading back to give him a catch on Scarface.
Calling it a test piece would be an understatement. That thing is
hard, but he'll get it. Now we are just kickin' it by the fire.

Slacking...

2008-10-17T08:41:00.001-07:00

I haven't put a post up in a little while. We have been cruising
Seattle and checking out the areas gyms, talking with people and
handing out shirts. By the way, for all that have been waiting, the
new purple Balance shirts are really sharp. I'll be sending a box to
Juneau as soon as we are in a smaller town.
The gyms we have gone to have been really nice. Stone Gardens had some
of the best bouldering of any gym I've been to. The Vertical World had
some of the highest bouldering I've seen. I was downright scared at
the top of routes, but the landings were soft and it was fun to have
that mental challenge of committing to moves so high up.
Today we have a lot of driving ahead of us. We are heading down to
Portland where we are going to check out the PRG and the Circuit, two
fine climbing establishments. Then we are off to Smith Rock! So stoked
to get back onto real rock, and in such a beautiful place. We will
take lots of pictures!

Sent from my iPhone

We don't do any other kind of work...

2008-10-15T00:07:00.000-07:00

The Life.

2008-10-14T22:40:00.000-07:00

Hunter and I just had an amazing dinner at a great Thai place in
downtown Seattle (so good to see you, Elise). Now we are chillin' on a
boat in Bell Harbor (huge props to Mark!). Perfect weather, full moon
and check out the view! Tomorrow...I think we will go climbing!

Thriller

2008-10-13T23:17:00.000-07:00

This may look like a random group hanging out in the parking lot, but
really it is the Bellingham Thriller Coalition. That's right, every
year the BTC preps for Halloween when they take to the streets
performing the coreographed dance of MJ's Thriller video. I was lucky
enough to join them. Stay tuned for video.

Christmas in October?

2008-10-13T12:23:00.000-07:00

I just got my new pad from Organic about two minutes ago! So stoked!

Rain and the Epic That Followed

2008-10-13T10:35:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was one of our best days of climbing yet. To give our weary
heads a rest from trad climbing, we decided to head to a place down
the road called Cheakamus to clip some bolts (sport climb). The vibe
was perfect, and all lead every route that the other got on. For
Rachel, this included a route rated 5.10d, a grade that pushes her on
toprope!

After a bunch of stellar routes, the group broke. I headed to the
boulders, and Rachel and Hunter did a multipitch sport climb in
Cheakamus.

This is where the epic begins (7pm):
We drive to Vancouver (1.5 hours) to meet up with a friend from
Juneau. The directions are bizarre, but we think that Vancouver must
have a Marine Drive AND a Marine Avenue...sorry Pete. We got sushi
instead and drove over the coolest bridge, and that was amazing(2
hours). The rest of the night would have been miserable without the
sushi.

We drive back to Squamish (1.5 hours). While driving down the
spookiest, darkest dirt road in all of Canada, we nearly hit a deer
that jumps out of the forest. This would have been less scary had it
not been for all of the talk of zombies the night before. Really, we
were happy it was just a deer, but it scared the crap out of all of
us. Right about this time (12am), it begins to RAIN. The forecast
doesn't look so good, and neither do the prospects of proper sleep for
Hunter and Rachel. So we decide to bail.

But not before losing a frog in the car (30 minutes). This whole
ordeal takes a while to get under control, and it doesn't help that
Rachel and I are crippled by laughter and can't help catch the thing.
Finally, Hunter finds the thing and gets it out of the car. It was a
welcome diversion from the zombie deer.

Now we are back on the road to Bellingham (12:30am) for a long drive
(3hr). Canada fought hard to not let me out. During the drive we
managed to get turned around and enter a freeway going the wrong
direction, as in heading into on coming traffic (easier to do than you
would expect...), get stuck on another freeway going the wrong
direction, as in north instead of south, have the head lights get
turned off inexplicably and unnoticed for about 30km, and to top it
all off, I couldn't find my ID at the border! Luckily, I have an old
falling apart expired drivers lisence that somehow got me through. The
guy must have been distracted by Hunter's passport photo.

So we roll into Bellingham at 3:30am and crash. Epic.

Squamish: Day two

2008-10-11T21:04:00.000-07:00

Sunshine in Squamish! Two days in a row? We've got some crazy luck going, and the forecast for tomorrow? Bluebird! Not bad, considering we barely made it across the border with Hunter's passport. "Osama Brown Ladin" may be his new nick name, as his passport photo caused quite the string of questions, and my cheek still hasn't healed from biting down to keep myself from laughing. As soon as we find a scanner, we'll show you. The guard just kept asking questions and looking back at Hunter's photo - and I just kept trying not to laugh. I thought we were going to get searched for sure.

Today, we started out by the Klahanie Crack - super classic, and beautiful. A couple of people were on it, so while waiting, we decided to cruise up Local Boys Do Good, a famous slab climb that happens to be fairly runout. If you don't do climber lingo, slab means that there are no holds AT ALL and runout means that if you fall, you are going to fall really really really far...

Me belaying Hunter...never have I seen someone climb
so much between clips.

Me happy to have Hunter safe on the ground.

I barely made it up on top rope. So much fun!Yep.

We let the good people who were climbing on the Klahanie hop on our rope to give Local Boys a go, hung out and talked for a bit. Mostly we apologized for Palin and got stoked on more climbing. The we all climbed the most perfect crack in all of Squamish. Yes sir, 100 feet of perfect hands! Unreal, if you like that sort of thing...crack climbing does kind of hurt though.

After that, it was more quality climbing. We are catching up with the blog now at Starbucks (even in Canada, Eh!) and just chillin'. So tired - but so satisfied. We have a crash pad and tomorrow we are going to head out to do some bouldering and some sport climbing down the road at Cheakamus. Squamish is so very worth checking out. It has been such a quality and friendly area.Peace.

Squamish, Day One!

2008-10-10T21:09:00.000-07:00

Word! We rolled into Squamish around noon today, and as always, coming around the corner and seeing the Chief was crazy! This place is so amazing. For all of you back in Juneau, imagine a 2,000 foot granite wall right behind town. That is Squamish. Bluebird skies today made for perfect conditions.

We pulled up and jumped head first right into things...at least Hunter and Rachael did. Hunter climbed an area classic, Mosquito and its second pitch, Phlemish Dance. Excellent climbs, and Hunter's first time leading on granite and Rachael's first time in any sort of crack - we were pretty stoked. A day of tuning our foot work on slab climbing (yikes) and then some food at the Howe Sound Brew Pub. Now we are going to go collapse for a good night sleep. We are worked. Stay tuned for pics coming shortly.

Fwd: Frenchman Coulee

2008-10-10T01:08:00.000-07:00

So for some reason, the blog got shut down briefly due to suspected spamming. No clue what that was about, but it will be going strong now. This one will be brief, but look for a bunch of new pictures tomorrow!

We just finished up two days at Vantage, a.k.a the F.C. It was incedible, otherworldly and

beautiful. An amazing desert environment with the most striking columns of basalt. We learned that the beta on every route, regardless off grade, was to high step and then stand up tall a pray for a good hold. Sure enough, it panned out every time!

Rachael had an especially impressive couple of days, leading everything she could get onto. It was awesome watching her climb so confidentally. Hunter and I did one of the coolest routes either of us have been on to date. A full 100' of climbing on one skinny column! A lot of tension and precarious moves. So cool!If you are ever in the area, you have to check it out! It is so very worth it. Bumps!

Leaving in 7 hours

2008-10-07T00:33:00.000-07:00

This is it for the next month...

I'm packed and ready to go - everything fit into my one duffel and my Organic messenger bag. I won't usually be plugging brands, but Josh Helke makes some great things. All hand made goods (I'm pretty sure they are all sewn exclusively by the owner and a small crew) including chalk bags, totes, duffel bags and the best crash pads. Every single item Organic makes is unique, and they use all of the scraps from making bouldering pads to make other soft goods. I've got a big pad being delivered to me in Bellingham - its going to be better than Christmas! There is something special about having something handmade just for you. Check out the site at www.organicclimbing.com.

One Day Away!

2008-10-06T01:55:00.001-07:00

Late night jitters, getting ready for the trip! Over the past couple days we have added new people to the roster, extended stays, stocked up on new fresh gear from the shop and have been training in the gym (or sitting on the couch), working out and getting stoked.

Paul and Jessie on the couch during Rocktoberfest at the Rock Dump

For people who are not in the know, Balance is doing a west coast tour (if you aren't familiar with Balance, go to www.balanceclimbing.com right now and catch up) stopping by all of the gyms and the best bouldering and climbing areas along the west coast! The crew is:

Jessie "Shakazulu" Palamino

Hunter "York" Brown a.k.a Hunner Bone

Paul "Man Strong" Disdier

Rachael "Lady Strong" Tarver

Hippie-Rob Cadmus

B randon "The Sewing Machine" Howard.

We are all packing into a van for the trip of a lifetime. The itinerary is crazy, a dream sheet of the finest rock. Check it out:

Squamish
Leavenworth
Smith Rock
No.Cal.
Trinity Aretes
Bay Area - Castle Rock & Mortar Rock
Yosemite
Bishop
Mt. Charleston
and everything in between...

This is the first (and least exciting) entry in what is going to be a daily report on the progress of our trip; complete with videos, pictures, words and shop promos. Hopefully it will inspire everyone to get out and climb, travel, meet people and have amazing adventures. Go out with your friends, wether it is out for the day to the sea cliffs, or an epic road trip over the next month (YEAH!!). If you have suggestions for places we should hit up, let us know. If we are going to be in your area and you want to climb, let us know. If we are going to be in your area, and you want to hook us up with a place to crash...

Alright, more tomorrow. I'm checking out. I need to sleep.